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BIGAGLI: AN EVOLUTION FROM TRADITIONAL TEXTILES TO TEXTILES FOR FOOTWEAR

The Lanificio Bigagli is a bold example of a successful diversification strategy. Founded in 1973 after the split of the Fratelli Bigagli firm, it set itself apart from the other firms in the Tuscan textile district to which it belongs by abandoning traditional textile production to enter a new niche sector, in which eventually it became a market leader. It now specializes in supplying textiles for the footwear industry, exporting most of its production.
At the outset it looked like a long shot, but in the end the gamble was won. âThe other firms in the district looked at us with suspicion because at the time there were few people who believed in moving on from traditional textilesâ, recalls Cristina Marcello, the daughter of the companyâs manager and main owner, Policarpo Marcello. But the idea to specialise in the niche for textiles and linings for footwear â particularly for slippers â was a turning point for the firm. Today slippers account for 60% of Bigagliâs revenues, which totalled 12 million euros last year. âWe have become the Italian market leader for the supply of footwear feltâ, states Cristina Marcello.
Over the years the company â which currently employs 60 people â has looked into branching out into other market niches. âWe are working on consolidating our position in handbags, and we took some initial steps into street footwear. Our philosophy is to offer extremely specialized products, with a global approach towards our clientsâ needsâ, explains Cristina Marcello. The Lanificio Bigagli wants to establish itself as the leading supplier in all the sectors of its own market, offering service and a wide range of products. âOur sample book, which we update every six months, includes around one hundred productsâ, boasts Cristina Marcello.
The company is able to maintain its position in the market also by concentrating on innovation. Bigagli invests 5% of its annual revenue into R&D. The objective is not just to innovate products in terms of style and technology, but also to find new applications for them â for example in sport shoes. âWe are ready to create ad hoc products for our clients, as they see us as a leading supplier that is able to offer high standards of production and maintain them over time, as well as a firm that is able to anticipate the market in an ever more difficult and evolving environmentâ, says Cristina Marcello. Lanificio Bigagliâs strength, therefore, lies in its capacity to apply the style and design characteristics that are associated with âMade in Italyâ products in the footwear sector, but also in the ability to guarantee high technical standards of manufacturing. âHowever, flexibility for us cannot result in the alteration of the nature of our products: we are willing to adapt, but we donât want to lose our identityâ.
Exports are very important for the company, as they account for 60% of its yearly revenues. While in Italy market shares are falling as a result of the outsourcing strategies adopted by the major footwear industries, Lanificio Bigagli is slowly gaining ground on the foreign markets. Germany is the main export market for the Prato-based firm, followed by Spain and France. The Unites States, where Bigagli arrived in 2006 by establishing contacts with local brands in the leather, footwear and clothing industries, are the next frontier. âThere was a great deal of interest for our products and we started to receive some orders. Our US clients particularly appreciate the use of natural materials and the fact that our production is entirely based in Italyâ, claims Cristina Marcello.

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