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ITALIAN EYEWEAR: A WORLD CLASS LEADER ALSO IN 2006


ITALIAN EYEWEAR: A WORLD CLASS LEADER ALSO IN 2006 Nearly 2.5 billion euros in turnover (in 2006), 18,000 employees and about 1,100 firms: these are figures for the Italian eyewear industry, an undisputed world-class leader, especially in the top-range of the market. Indeed, while Italian firms produce around 27% of the world's glasses (a sector worth around 9 billion euros), their share in the luxury bracket rises up to 70-75%. There are around 300 licences for designer brands of glasses, and over 50% of them (154) are produced in Italy.

The sector is traditionally inclined towards the international market. Italy is the first exporter of glasses in the world in terms of value, with a share of 27,3% over a total of 7.6 billion euros, and the third in terms of volumes. In 2006 there was a net surplus between exports and imports of around 1.4 billion euros. In the same year there was also a significant increase in the exports of glasses frames, sunglasses and lenses: +18.2% compared to 2005 and +34.8% compared to 2004. On the whole, Italian glasses exports in 2006 were worth 2.1 billion euros, 320 millions more compared to 2005. Sunglasses were the most popular item (+23% to almost 1.35 billion euros) while the figures for prescription frames were less spectacular, yet still significant (+10.5% to over 675 million euro).

These stats have been published by Anfao (www.anfao.it), the trade association for the Italian optical industry. Its figures for 2007, presented just before the summer, confirm the positive trend registered in 2006. In January, exports increased in value by 16.2% year-on-year, and over the first quarter the growth should stabilise around 12-13%. In terms of volumes, Anfao's conservative forecasts indicate exports of around 20 million pairs of Italian glasses - 7 million prescription frames and 13 million sunglasses. Exports are thus driven by sunglasses, even though the prescription sector continues to show a positive trend.

In the meantime, Anfao's President has changed at the end of September: Vittorio Tabacchi, chairman of the Safilo group, has replaced Cirillo Marcolin. In his goodbye speech to the Anfao assembly on the 25th September, Mr Marcolin has mentioned the promotional activities that the Association has launched with the Italian Trade Commission (ICE). "We have done a lot together to promote 'Made in Italy' products in the last few years, and we have consolidated our relationship", he said. ICE and Anfao's cooperation often extends to organising joint participation in international fairs: "very soon we will send an official delegation to Dubai", announced Mr Marcolin.

Mr Tabacchi and Mr Marcolin are respectively the chairman and the CEO of the second and third largest players in the Italian optical industry: Safilo and Marcolin. Both firms, like the industry leader Luxottica - headed by Leonardo Del Vecchio - are listed on the stock exchange. All three giants are located in the glasses-manufacturing district of Belluno, in the Veneto region, where 80% of Italian production is concentrated. Two other major players are based in the region: De Rigo and Allison. As well as Veneto, the Italian eyewear industry has an important base in the province of Varese, where several firms specialised in the production of moulded plastic sunglasses. Renato Sopracolle, President of the Glasses district of the Belluno province (http://www.distrettidelveneto.it), explains which are the distinctive traits of Italian made glasses. "Like many of the leading 'Made in Italy' products, Italian glasses have evolved from a medical instrument to a fashion accessory. Our sector, therefore, is a showcase for the design flair and style that distinguish many Italian products. It is not a coincidence that sunglasses are the fastest growing segment".

The success of Italian eyewear in the world is mainly due to large players - the 'big five' account for 75% of turnover in the Belluno district - which had the capacity to establish their position in the international market. Small and medium enterprises (SMEs) are beginning to follow their lead, though they are aware they cannot make it on their own. "To this end - Mr Sopracolle concludes - collective initiatives to organise official delegations at trade fairs are quite successful. Some are organised with the help of local authorities and ICE, which cooperates with the Belluno district as well as with the national Association, Anfao".
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