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LUXURY IS BACK:
FULL RECOVERY SEEN BY '05
After a long and difficult crisis, the Italian
luxury market is starting to improve at a very fast pace. Analysts
and industry executives are convinced that Italian and European
luxury goods firms, battered by the global economic slow down and
the recent rise of the euro, are getting healthier every quarter
and are set to recover completely by 2005. “Our fourth-quarter
performance continues to be outstanding, and I believe that we
will achieve excellent results for the remainder of the year,”
said Domenico De Sole, outgoing Chief Executive Officer of
Gucci Group, to the Financial Times recently. Last December, the
Italian fashion house reported very strong financial results for
the third quarter of 2003 and is forecasting strong sales
worldwide for 2004...
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LUXURY IS BACK:
FULL RECOVERY SEEN BY '05 (CONT.)
“The market is beginning to pick up,” said Bernard
Fornas, president of Cartier International, which manage a dozen
boutiques in Italy. “SARS is over, and Americans and Asians are
beginning to travel again.” In the meanwhile, as it was clearly
emphasized last November during the Milan Fashion Global Summit,
Italian and European luxury goods firms are exploring new markets, the
Chinese one in particular. De Sole pointed out that the market is
going through a dramatic change, “with Chinese tourists replacing the
Japanese.” last year, Italian jeweler Bulgari opened two boutiques in
Shanghai and Beijing and expects China to become the second most
important Asian market after Japan within five years. The company
believes that in a decade, sales in China could make up more than 10%
of Bulgari’s total revenue, up from less than half per cent expected
for this year. Following the steps of Bulgari, Italian shoemaker Tod’s
is planning to open two boutiques in China next year. “Nobody can
afford to ignore Asia and China,” said Diego Della Valle, Tod’s
Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, who pointed out that, excluding
China, Asia accounts for 8% of Tod’s global sales and is growing at
35% per year.
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ITALIA LIFE IN I STYLE: THE ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION’S
CAMPAIGN TO PROMOTE ITALIAN FASHION AND ACCESSORIES
The Italian Trade Commission’s (ITC) promotional campaign, Italia:
Life in I style is moving forward with exciting and informative
cultural and commercial events to promote fashion, accessories,
footwear and textiles in the United States. Italia: Life in I style,
a custom-published magazine, has been one of the ITC’s most successful
initiatives. First published in May 2002, the second issue appeared
on time for the Christmas holiday season in December 2002. One
million copies of Italia: Life in I style were distributed as a
supplement to six of Hearst’s leading fashion and home design
publications. The 160-page edition contains stories about many
elements that make up Italian lifestyle including fashion, home
design, cinema, jewelry, ceramic tiles, wine and travel. A retrospect
on Italian fashion, focusing on collections from the 20th century,
staged at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) on February 2003
and ran through April 2003. The exhibition, “Fashion, Italian Style”
(www.fashionitalian-style.com), was curated by Valerie Steele, fashion
historian and curator of the Museum of FIT. Historical pieces from
leading designers were on display together with photographs that
highlighted the transformation of fashion over the last century.
During 2003 the Italian Trade Commissione established a unique
partnership with one of New York’s most influential department
stores. From March to December 2003, windows at the luxury retailer
Bergdorf Goodman were dedicated to Italian fashion and special events
such as trunk shows were held at the store. In addition, the Italian
Trade Commission organized a promotion along New York’s Madison Avenue
entitled “Italy Salutes New York.” Participating Italian boutiques
offered extended hours and special activities between March 27th and
April 6th. The public was invited to check out the latest fashion and
accessories from Italy and to enter a drawing to win exceptional
prizes. The Fall 2003 campaign included an exhibition celebrating
Italian design called “1950-2000 Theatre of Italian Creativity” (www.italian-creativity.com).
The show, curated by Italian architect Gae Aulenti, debuted in New
York City on October 10th, 2003 and featured some of the finest
examples of Italian design. The exhibit is set up chronologically and
takes the visitor on a delightful “trip” through five decades that
begins with the Vespa/Lambretta and ends with the Ferrari. One of the
highlights of the “Italia Life in I style” campaign in Fall 2003 was
the Italian Trade Commission promotion with Neiman Marcus. The
promotion was held for two weeks in October at the Dallas and Houston
stores as well as at all Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. Italian
products were showcased and featured in a series of special events and
in the Neiman Marcus publications. In November 2003 the Italian Trade
Commission also partnered with the New York stores of Brooks Brothers
to promote their “Made in Italy” Lines. Along with Italian products
being featured in the Fifth Avenue and 53rd store the promotion
included special events and advertising.
As always the Italian Trade Commission’s efforts to support Italian
companies interested in breaking into the American market are
continuing. Autonomous
exhibitions are planned as well as participation within major trade
shows.
On the calendar so far for 2004 are: WSA, Ffany, Magic, Los Angeles
Texitalia and I-TexStyle. Special advertising opportunities are made
available to Italian firms exhibiting in an ITC show or pavilion. The
ITC’s newsletters for both American retailers and Italian
manufacturers are now published on a regular basis. The publications
include newsworthy stories about the Italian and American fashion
industries and the calendar of the ITC’s activities throughout the
year. Fostering relationships with retailers and exposing them to
Italian lifestyle and products firsthand is a top priority. One
of the ways the ITC accomplishes this is by sponsoring trips to trade
fairs and factories. Retailers have been invited to a variety of
shows including Pitti Immagine Uomo, Moda In, Micam and Mipel, to name
a few. With so much product available in the global economy today,
there is a need to continuously demonstrate to American buyers why
Italy is a leader in the fashion industry. The Italia: Life in ‘I’
style campaign is designed as a permanent effort to promote three key
areas of Italian production: fashion (Moda), home design (Abitare) and
film (Filmare). The Italian Trade Commission (known in Italy as “I.C.E.”)
is the government agency entrusted with promoting trade, business
opportunities and industrial cooperation between Italian and foreign
companies, mostly by organizing the participation of Italian firms in
fairs, exhibitions, workshops and bilateral meetings in more than 100
countries all over the world.
For more information contact the Italian Trade Commission in New York
.
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ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION BUILDS RETAIL
RELATIONSHIPS
Since 1995 independent specialty retail stores in America have
received a unique kind of support from the Italian Trade Commission
(ITC) to help them sell fashion made in Italy. The approach is simple:
create Italian-themed promotions to lure consumers in to shop. The
ITC’s lifestyle campaign, Italia: Life in I style, takes it one step
further by delivering the message why Italian fashion is better. High
quality fabrics are used in the most sought after designs and the
craftsmanship is unrivaled – indeed much of the assembling is still
done by hand in Italy. “We believe that by collaborating with
retailers we will be able to show consumers what makes Italian fashion
superior,” says Roberto Luongo, executive director for the USA at the
ITC. The ITC works with retailers all over the country to develop
promotions that create excitement for their customers. Store
anniversaries are often marked by fashion shows highlighting Italian
fashion and sumptuous displays of food and wine. Weather-permitting,
events can be staged outdoors like a human chess game held in
Charlotte, N.C., echoing a 400-year old tradition in the town of
Marostica, Italy, And to the delight of many customers, the latest
Italian sportscars and motorbikes frequently adorn a retailers’ front
doorstep. Local charities are often recipients of the good will that
retailers vigorously foster their hometown communities. Says Roberto
Luongo, “Many Americans, especially in big cities, already appreciate
the fine products that Italy has to offer, like apparel, footwear and
accessories. What we want to do is reach into the heartland of the
U.S. and show everyone that the things that make Italian lifestyle
desirable are available in their areas too”. Currently, “Italia: Life
in I style” promotions are planned with more than 40 U.S. apparel and
footwear stores. For more information, contact the Italian Trade
Commission.
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FIRST FULL FALL/WINTER COLLECTIONS AT THE
I-TEXSTYLE
TRADE SHOW
On October 15 & 16, 2003, I-TexStyle, a premier show of Italian
fabrics organized by the Italian Trade Commission, presented full
collections for the first time. The show also moved to the North
Pavilion at the Jacob Javits Convention Center in New York.
Traditionally held in January and July as a pre-collection show, I-TexStyle’s
new October dates afforded exhibitors the unprecedented opportunity to
show their complete Fall/Winter 2004-05 collections. “This new edition
of I-TexStyle in October gave designers & buyers the opportunity to
see the full collections from 50 top Italian mills and access to the
incredible innovation and creativity that the Italian weavers offer,”
says Rossana Ciraolo, Fashion Director of the Italian Trade
Commission. I-TexStyle also featured a trend display area, featuring
swatches from the exhibiting companies. I-TexStyle is endorsed by the
Italian Textile fairs: Prato Expo, Moda In and IdeaComo and is
supported by the Italian Trade Commission’s worldwide lifestyle
campaign, “Life in I Style.” I-TexStyle brought together fifty key
weavers from the leading fabric regions of Italy, including Prato,
Como and Biella. These exhibitors presented fabrics across all
fashion categories including womenswear, menswear, sportswear and
eveningwear.
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NINTH EDITION FOR THE LOS ANGELES TEXITALIA SHOW
The Italian Trade Commission in New York organized the ninth edition
of “TEXITALIA” in Los Angeles, a collective of Italian apparel
textiles, from October 20-22, 2003. The exhibition, showing apparel
textile collections for Fall/Winter 2004/2005 ranging from the
medium-high to high price points, –featured 20 Italian mills and one
button manufacturer, the majority of which were from Tuscany (11),
mainly from the district of Prato, from Lombardy (7), from the
district of Como, and from the Piedmont and Veneto regions. This
edition of the show was marked by an increase in the number of
visitors, amongst whom were names such as Liz Claiborne and Bebe,
which goes to confirm growing interest in the fashion industry on the
West Coast. During the next edition of the show, which will be held in
April 2004, the New York office of the Italian Trade Commission plans
to introduce fashion trend presentations and a collaboration project
which will involve West Coast Design Schools.
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THE FINEST ITALIAN FOOTWEAR AT FFANY NEW YORK SHOW
At the last Ffany, held at the Javits Center from December 8-10
December 2003, some 25 companies were all part of “Shoes from Italy”,
a special exhibition on Italian footwear organized by the Italian
Trade Commission in partnership with the Italian Association of
Footwear Manufacturers (ANCI). Featuring men’s, women’s and children’s
footwear of medium/ high and high quality, ranging from comfort to
fashion to casual – this was the first Italian Pavilion at Ffany
supported by the Italian Trade Commission and ANCI. “Together with
ANCI, we want to start a new presence of Italian companies in New York
and support companies who can showcase new trends, new technologies
and new style – said Roberto Luongo, Executive Director for the US at
the Italian Trade Commission. The show, held at the Jacob Javits
Convention Center in New York and also in some designated show rooms,
attracted more than 3500 buyers coming from all over the U.S..
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ITALIAN FASHION MART: MORE THAN 200 BUYERS IN FLORENCE
From November 8th to November 10th, 2003 about one hundred Italian
companies met more than 200 buyers coming from all over the world. The
event took place at Stazione Leopolda in Florence, a very unusual and
unique place for business meetings. The focus was on footwear and
accessories. The Italian Trade Commission in New York, in partnership
with the Italian Association of Buying Offices, invited to Italy about
36 US retailers coming from all over the US, from Hawai to Virginia,
Illinois, and Ohio. Representatives from department stores such as
Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue joined the group, as well.
Retailers were given the opportunity to work in a very relaxed
atmosphere and, at the same time, experience the real Italian way of
life, by enjoying Italian food and entertainment. The event was also
aimed at showing foreign retailers how to buy from Italy by working
with a Buying Office, which handles all the sourcing for the client
according to the guidelines received. The National Shoe Retailers
Association (NSRA) selected the US and Canadian buyers taking part to
the event.
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WWW.BG-MENS.COM: THE NEW WEBSITE FOR ITALIAN MENSWEAR &
ACCESSORIES
During the month of December 2003, the Italian Trade Commission and
the luxury specialty store Bergdorf Goodman launched their first web
site entirely dedicated to menswear and accessories. Featuring
high-end Italian brands such as Luciano Barbera, Bottega Veneta,
Lorenzi and Etro, the web site represented the first on line
experience for Bergdorf Goodman and it was aimed at informing the
customers on products available and at attracting them to the stores,
not at selling. The web site was also advertised on line on the New
York Times Magazine and in W Magazine personal shopper section. The
number of contacts made was outstanding and, following this success,
the Italian Trade Commission and Bergdorf Goodman are planning to
partner again on other new projects.
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NEIMAN MARCUS CELEBRATES THE ART OF ITALIAN STYLE
This past Fall, the Italian Trade Commission’s (ITC) promotional
campaign,
Italia: Life in I Style,
with the support of leading Italian Trade Associations,
joined together with retail legend Neiman Marcus to
celebrate THE ART OF ITALIAN STYLE; a mélange of Italian culture, art,
fashion, and food. The October event showcased the individuality of
Italian designers and the quality of Italian manufacturing through a
series of outstanding events. Neiman Marcus stores nationwide kicked
off “The Art of Italian Style” promotion on October 10, 2003, with
in-store festivities including personal appearances, trunk shows,
lifestyle exhibits, as well as Italian art and food. Special menus
designed specifically to highlight the culinary richness of the
country made appearances in the 43 Neiman Marcus restaurants
nationwide.
The event culminated with celebrated designer Roberto Cavalli, who
made personal appearances on October 14th and 15th, as well as played
host to his own fashion shows with Neiman Marcus,
in both Dallas, TX, and Houston, TX, to kick off “The Art of Italian
Style.” The Dallas event was attended in excess of 500 people,
amongst whom Consul General of Italy in Texas, Massimo Rustico, a
number of Texan socialites, press and buyers. In addition to the
in-store events, the promotion included special inserts on
Made-in-Italy products in the Neiman Marcus catalogue, the book, in
their newsletter as well as in the “InCircle Entrée” magazine, which
is distributed exclusively to Neiman Marcus’s top customers.
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CHINA CHALLENGES ITALY’S TEXTILE AND SILK INDUSTRIES
Northern Italy, one of the major players in the European textile and
clothing industry, is struggling to absorb the impact of imports from
China. Europe’s trade gap with Beijing is only about 10 billion
dollars, less then a tenth of the United States’, but the industry
appears more vulnerable than in the North America, where only 15% of
jobs are in the manufacturing sector. In Italy the percentage is
almost double the amount, while in the Como area, where 90% of Italian
silk is produced, nearly a third of the job market is link to the
textile industry. “We have the roots, the culture of silk production,”
said Graziano Brenna, president of the textile section of the
Industrial Union of Como, to the Washington Post. “China has copied
us. What can we do? But our design sense and creativity is not just a
function of technology. It’s also a reflection of what’s valued around
the world: our style and taste.” Another major problem for the Italian
textile industry, and the silk production in particular, has been the
year long rise of the euro against the dollar. The strength of the
European currency led to a large decrease of Italian imports into the
United States, where the Chinese textile and silk is now dominating
the market.
Similarly to what is happening in the United States, where lobbies and
trade group are pressing the White House to initiate new laws to curb
textile imports from China, some Italian policymakers are asking the
government to set up protection measures from the Chinese threat.
However, on a recent trip to China, Italian Prime Minister Silvio
Berlusconi said that rules within the World Trade Organization should
guarantee enough protection for our market. The Washington Post
points out that Italy, like most countries, has an ambivalent
relationship with globalization. “As some people here in the US decry
the erosion of manufacturing, consumers snap up a flood of low-cost
Chinese goods,” the Post said.
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ITC: INDUSTRY AGREEMENT WITH THE ITALIAN
JEWELLERY
ASSOCIATIONS
Adolfo Urso, Vice Minister of Industry and Foreign Trade, signed in
December 2003 the first industry agreement with jewellery associations
and the main agencies which organize events in the area of Arezzo,
Valenza-Po and Vicenza. The overall funding will be 1 million euros,
half of which will be allocated by the Ministry and the Italian Trade
Commission and half by the Ente Fiera di Arezzo, Valenza-Po and
Vicenza. "An important agreement which will strengthen the sector,
especially in the main market: the USA" said Urso, who added that the
jewellery sector is a driving force for exports. About 70% of the
Italian production is exported worldwide, representing 4,830 million
euros on the balance of trade.
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VERY STRONG THIRD QUARTER FOR GUCCI GROUP
The Italian fashion house Gucci Group announced very strong financial
results for the third quarter of 2003, a performance that
substantiates analysts’ expectations for a potential rebound of the
luxury-goods industry later this year. The company, battered last
December by the decision of Chief Executive Officer Domenico De Sole
and Creative Director Tom Ford not to extend their contracts beyond
April 2004, reported profits of 53.1 million euros (67.4 million
dollars), a slight increase from a year earlier. Total revenues were
695.0 million euros (882.6 million dollars), up 12.8% on a constant
currency basis. "This has been a great quarter for the Group. All
divisions performed extremely well, led by Gucci’s outstanding sales
and profits growth,” Mr. De Sole said. “The spectacular Fall
ready-to-wear collection has been driving traffic into the Gucci
stores and generating strong sales worldwide,” he added. De Sole
pointed out that with 20% retail sales growth in the United States and
Europe, the Gucci division is one of the best performing luxury brands
in the world. In the third quarter the division’s operating income
before goodwill amortization was up 11.2% to 100.9 million euros
(128.1 million dollars) from 90.8 million euros (115.3 million
dollars). The division revenues were 373.1 million euros (473.8
million dollars), compared to 355.7 million euros (451.7 million
dollars) in 2002, up 4.9%. Measured on a constant currency basis,
retail sales in the United States increased 20.4%, with double-digit
growth both on the mainland and in Hawaii. In Europe the increase was
9.4%. Excluding Italy, where local customer and tourist demand was
weak during the quarter, retail sales grew 21.7%, led by exceptional
performance in the UK (+45.8%). As for Bottega Veneta, in the third
quarter the division achieved retail sales growth of 51.1%, thanks to
the outstanding performance in the U.S. market, with an increase of
65.8%.
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FILA LEAVES THE NYSE: SOON ITS STOCKS WILL BE DELISTED
FROM THE BIG BOARD
Fila is leaving Wall Street, or so it seems. The beloved Italian
fashion house, founded in 1928 in Biella, is not abandoning the
American consumer market, where is now doing very well, however, the
company is trying to get its stock delisted from the New York Stock
Exchange. The decision is not a strategic one at all. Au contraire.
It was reached in view of the fact that Fila has recently completed
the sale of all of its operating subsidiaries: “accordingly, has
ceased being an operating company”, as a NYSE press release points
out. In other words, the company has basically become an empty shell,
without any operational assets. The sale took place during the
summer, when the Italian conglomerate RCS MediaGroup, formally known
has Holding di Partecipazioni (HdP), sold Fila to Sport Brands
International (SBI), controlled by the U.S. private investment fund
Cerberus, for 351 million dollars in cash. The deal, completed last
June after long and challenging negotiations, gave Fila’s brand name,
production capabilities, distribution, and franchising agreements to
SBI. Following the sale, Fila’s assets consisted of 30 to 35 million
dollars in cash and no operational subsidiaries. Last October, the
company decided to change its name from Fila Holdings to RCS
Investimenti and concluded a cash tender offer to purchase the
ordinary shares of Fila that it did not already owned. RCS is now
controlling approximately 98.2% of the company’s shares. The stocks –
has recently been suspended from trading at the NYSE and it will be
soon be delisted. “We are committed to perpetuating and enhancing
Fila’s position in the marketplace and see a tremendous opportunity to
successfully leverage the brand and its lifestyle appeal,” Jon
Epstein, President and CEO of SBI, says.
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BENETTON: POSITIVE OUTL0OK FOR THE PERIOD 2003-2007
During a recent meeting with the financial community,
Benetton Group presented upbeat projections for 2003-2007, a period in
which the company intends “to leverage the strong global recognition
of its brands, in particular United Colors of Benetton and Sisley.”
The Italian fashion group, based in Ponzano Veneto, forecasts a
revenue growth for the four-year period of 22.5%, with a target of 991
million euros (1.3 billion dollars) in revenues for 2007. “The
gross margin for the period is influenced principally by the
significant reductions in industrial costs, in part linked to the
process of delocalization of manufacturing activities in Europe,” the
company stated in a press release.
EBIT is expected to increase over 40% in the period 2003-2004,
demonstrating “the strong capacity to generate value of the Benetton
business model. Overall investments for the period are expected to
reach 430 million euros (546.1 million dollars). Approximately half of
the total will be dedicated to the commercial network.
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PRADA THINKS OUTSIDE THE BOX AND INVESTS IN REAL ESTATE
Italian fashion group Prada Holding is putting nine
properties in Europe and North America into a real estate fund that it
hopes to sell to outside investors. The fund is worth 160 million
euros (203 million dollars). The properties include “very prestigious”
locations in Italy, France and the U.S. that the company is currently
using as office and storage space. Prada said that it is in talks to
sell a majority stake of the fund to the financial holding company
Beni Stabili and a minority stake to Italian bank Banca Intesa.
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Luxury is back
Italia life in I Style campaign
Retail relationships
I-Texstyle trade show
Ninth edition for Texitalia
The Ffany New York Show
Italian Fashion Mart
www.bg-mens.com
Neiman Marcus and Italian Style
China challenges Italian textile
Industry agreement with jewellers
Very strong quarter for Gucci
Fila leaves the NYSE
Positive outlook for Benetton
Prada invests in real estate
Italian Style Index
Italian trade shows
US/Italy trade data
The performance on Wall Street
The performance on the Milan Stock Exchange
Calendar
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* by invitations only
The above dates are subject to change
without notification by show organizers. Please contact the respective
offices directly for updates, catalogues or registration information.
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January 8-11, 2004
Buyer trip to PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO
Florence Italy
January 16-18, 2004
Buyer trip to PITTI BIMBO
Florence Italy
January 21, 2004
MODA IN Trend Presentation for Spring/Summer 2005
Speaker: Angelo Uslenghi
Tinker Auditiorium, New York
January 25-27, 2004
Made in Italy at the COLLECTIVE
Italian menswear companies exhibiting at the Collective
Organized by EMI-Ente Moda Italia
The Show Piers, New York
January 30 - February 1, 2004
Press trip to the home furnishings trade show PITTI IMMAGINE CASA
Florence Italy
February 9, 2004
Special insert in “Footwear News”
“Importing from Italy”
To be distributed at the WSA show in Las Vegas
February 10-13, 2004
Italian Pavilion at WSA
Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas
February 12, 2004
Seminar
“Creating Excitement in your Store” The Best Display Ideas from Italy
In conjunction with ANCI and NSRA
Sands Expo, Las Vegas
February 2004
Special Insert in MR Magazine featuring Italian companies at MAGIC
INTERNATIONAL
To be distributed at Magic International, Las Vegas
February 23-26, 2004
Italian Pavilion at MAGIC INTERNATIONAL
Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas
February 29 - March 2, 2004
Made in Italy at the Fashion Coterie
Italian womenswear companies exhibiting at the FASHION COTERIE
Organized by EMI-Ente Moda Italia
The Show Piers, New York
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