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WHOLESALE FASHION EXPERIENCES HIGH-SPEED GROWTH

With annual turnover growth of 9.2% and a 15.9% increase in wholesale intermediaries, the numbers released in July 2009 in a study carried out by Nomisma are enough to get an idea of the extent to which the Italian fashion wholesale sector has expertly held its own, even in a time of crisis. And in this context it is worth noting the experience of Centergross, a top-notch organisation which also represents an innovative business model that is admired all over the world. The commercial hub in Funo di Argelato (Bologna province) extends over a surface area of 1 million square metres, of which around 400 thousand are intended for use as display space. Almost 700 companies (683 in July 2008) operate there, of which two thirds are active in the fashion sector. Centergross is growing with an annual turnover of more than 5 billion Euros annually and fashion accounts for 80 percent of this. How can one explain the success of this large commercial organisation, which could be described as old (it was started in 1977) and futuristic at the same time? For its vice-president Alessandra Lombardini, a single word is all that’s needed: “Speed: the essential characteristic of the dynamic and flexible business model that we have managed to create. Speed has also distinguished the capacity of companies operating in Centergross to change and their ability to understand the market’s requirements". It is a process of change which over the years has transformed the traditional wholesaler into a decidedly more complex animal: one that is able to design and lead the creation of its own collections as well as place them on the market.
Speed, as the term itself suggests, lies at the heart of fast fashion, the new trend which is driving the world of fashion: in fact, it is a gamble which has paid off as a result of the market’s move towards pre-collections. “Fast fashion – as Lombardini explains – represents a rapid and high-quality response to the market’s requirements. By reducing procurement times as much as possible, the reseller can meet the consumer’s requirements in a timely manner”. Testifying to the dynamism of this market is the fact that Centergross has in recent months organised two editions of the Fast Fashion Festival: one took place in September and the other on the 15th and 16th of February last year. Glamorous displays are not just for the benefit of those working on Italian projects but also for a significant number of operators outside Italy which consider the Funo di Argelato commercial hub to be an absolute benchmark. Centergross has in recent years witnessed a gradual increase in exports: according to the Nomisma report, 3/4 of fashion companies operate outside Italy with exports amounting to 43% of total turnover (it was 35% in 2005). The main markets attracted by the Centergross offering are “those of Eastern Europe – the vice-president continues – mainly Russia and the former Soviet Union. Then there is also the Middle East, a very important market for us. And one should not forget the Far East either, particularly China and Japan”.
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