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ITALIAN HAM SET TO CONQUER THE FAR EAST WITH A SOUL FULL OF TRADITION
A total turnover of just under 2 billion euros; over 12 million hams made every year; export quotas around 20%: Italian ham, whether it be produced in Parma (Emilia-Romagna) or in San Daniele (in Friuli-Venezia Giulia), is a flagship product of the Italian food industry, to be found on dinner tables around the world. There are two consortia that protect and add value to the two most popular varieties. Both have been awarded the DOP brand (Denomination of protected origin), which recognises and defines a product of a particular region, whose characteristics are essentially or exclusively dependent on its geographical and environmental source. The consortia comprise the "Consorzio del prosciutto di Parma" (www.prosciuttodiparma.com), created in 1963, currently representing over 170 producers, and the "Consorzio del prosciutto di San Daniele" (www.prosciuttosandaniele.it), two years its junior (1961), comprising 30 ham producers.
Stefano Fanti, Director general of the Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma, explains: "Our strength is our link to the territory. Our product is famous because it can only be made on the Parma hills, where the microclimate is unique, the know-how is superior, and the traditions are centuries-old". For these reasons, any attempt at outsourcing the production - a crisis solution carried out by many Italian sectors - is doomed to failure. "Reproducing a product like ours abroad" - warns Mr Fanti - "would be nonsensical. What our consortium must do is differentiate itself from other local products, demonstrating that our excellence is rooted in our ties with the area of production".
Therefore, the only way to impose Italian ham outside national borders is through marketing and distribution. Indeed, San Daniele is currently preparing to pass the Chinese Wall: a few months ago the Consortium announced it was joining the "Italian pleasures in China" project, an initiative which includes the Crai group, the Grana Padano Consortium, Conserve Italia and Cavit, together with the Chinese partner China Silk Import & Export Corporation - supported by the Ministries of Agriculture and of Foreign Affairs, and by the Italian Trade Commission (ICE). The initiative foresees the opening of four "flagship stores" to promote and expand Italian food and tourism in China. The aim is to "land" in Beijing in early 2008, before the Olympics. Similar events in Shanghai and Tianjin would follow.
"The potential market" - states Alberto Morgante, President of the Consorzio del prosciutto di San Daniele - "is huge. Even reaching a niche size would mean another Italy for us." But it is not that simple: the problem is making people understand the product and teaching the correct tasting methods, which is the only way to get ham moving. Indeed, sometimes it happens that on the Chinese market San Daniele ham is sold at the wrong "ageing" time, or cut too thick. "The only way to ensure that entering the Chinese market does not end up being an isolated experience but opens the way to a consolidated presence - Morgante explains - is to spread a vision of the product, explaining the correct way to consume it".
The initiative in China confirms the potential of co-branding and co-marketing strategies, upon which the Consorzio del prosciutto di Parma is also counting. "Together with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Chianti and pasta - Fanti continues - we have organised many initiatives to promote our products overseas. Building a range of excellent products seemed like the winning strategy to us". But we also work on innovation, for example in the packaging. "Our pre-sliced ham - Fanti concludes - is our fastest growing sector, with increases of up to 30%".
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